Acura 13310-PH7-020 Crankshaft

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes using a stone, file, or scraper, ensuring the oil holes are chamfered to prevent sharp edges from damaging new bearings. Inspect the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits, and cracks. Rub a penny across each journal several times; if copper rubs off and embeds in the crankshaft, the journals need to be reground. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air, using a stiff brush to clean the oil passages and flushing them with solvent. Check the crankshaft for cracks and other damage, and have it magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks at an automotive machine shop. Measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals with a micrometer at several points to detect taper and out-of-round conditions, and check crankshaft runout with large V-blocks and a dial indicator if available. If the journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond limits, have the crankshaft reground by an automotive machine shop, ensuring the correct size bearing inserts are used if reconditioned. Inspect the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage; if a groove is present or if the journal is nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak upon reassembly. An automotive machine shop may repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve, but if repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed. Examine the main and rod bearing inserts for further assessment.

Once the engine has been removed from the vehicle, so has the flywheel or drive plate, timing belt, oil pan, oil pick up tube, oil pump, piston and connecting rod assemblies all the way up to the crankshaft, because the crankshaft can not be removed if the engine is still in the vehicle. The endplay should be checked before the crank is relieved by mounting a dial indicator with the crank in the datum by touching one of the crank throws and pushing the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver. Put the crankshaft at the back of the movement and zero on the dial indicator; then pry it forward and check the reading; the movement gives the endplay, which should be checked for wear in the thrust surfaces if the number exceeds specifications. The clearance of crankshaft to thrust main bearing can be measured if feeler gauges are available by prying crankshaft to the front and measuring the clearance between the crankshaft and the thrust main bearing. If the main bearing caps are not marked if for their locations and not numbered consecutively from front to rear, then mark them accordingly. Starting around the engine, carefully loosen the main bearing cap bolts gradually and gently tap the caps with a soft face hammer to break the block away from the caps, using bolts as levers if need be. Carefully lift the crankshaft out, finally, hopefully with some assistance due to the weight of the whole part, and slide the bearing inserts into their respective locations in the engine block, affixing the main bearing cap bridge and tightening the main bearing bolts finger tight.