Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump pick-up tube, pump, and baffle plate must be taken off. Use your fingernail to check for any ridges at the upper limit of ring travel, approximately 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder. If ridges are present due to carbon deposits or cylinder wear, they must be completely removed with a special tool, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. After addressing any cylinder ridges, turn the engine upside-down with the crankshaft facing up. The bearing cap bridge should be removed first to access the connecting rods, except for specific DOHC non-VTEC engines. Before removing the connecting rods, check the side clearance with feeler gauges, ensuring that the endplay does not exceed the service limit; if it does, new connecting rods may be necessary. The existing numbers on the connecting rods indicate the rod bore size, not their position in the engine, so mark each rod and cap with indentations corresponding to their associated cylinder numbers. Loosen the connecting rod cap nuts gradually until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert without dropping the insert. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall during piston removal, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt. Remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine, using a wooden hammer handle to apply pressure on the upper bearing surface. If resistance is encountered, ensure that all ridges have been removed from the cylinder. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods and install the cap nuts finger tight to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces. Avoid separating the pistons from the connecting rods.
